Sorry for the week of radio silence: I got back last Friday but have been busy picking up the reins of my life and getting over jetlag and a cold.

Although Australia was fantastic and I had an amazing time, I’m glad to be home. I missed my family and while I loved the sunshine and sea, I do quite like this damp little island that I call home.

Kirsty Hall: Happy Face Graffiti, Bristol, Feb 2008

Getting off the plane I was struck both by the cold (it was snowing when I got back) and the gorgeous softness of the light we have here. Australia was so bright that I needed my sunglasses most of the time and the glaring light created strong shadows that gave everything a stark quality.

Kirsty Hall: Australian Bush, The Blue Mountains, March 2008

I found myself very aware of the relentless fierceness of the heat: there’s no doubt that Australia is a harsh environment and many of the objects that I saw were weathered and bleached by the sun.

Kirsty Hall: Worn fence posts, Australia, March 2008

The light in Britain can occasionally be that strong but usually there’s a subtle quality to the light and colour here that I very much enjoy. I’m not saying that I wouldn’t enjoy a bit more warmth and sunshine but I like our rain-washed colour spectrum. I find that living with grey skies and muted colours so much of the year gives me a heightened appreciation of splashes of bright colour when I finally do see them.

Kirsty Hall: Purple Sunset, Bristol, Jan 2008

Kirsty Hall: New Leaves Unfurling, Bristol, Feb 2008

Yesterday’s colour was green. Not only was it St Patrick’s Day – apparently celebrated with great joie de vivre in Sydney – but I spent a delightful afternoon exploring the Royal Botanic Gardens with local artist, Wendy Shortland. Wendy kindly showed me around this beautiful green space and we had a grand old time admiring the plants and wildlife.

There was much to see and I took plenty of reference photos of natural forms. Yet the thing that struck me most was the strangeness of the living bamboo covered with graffiti. I don’t always like graffiti; often it can seem intrusive and destructive and I’m particularly ambivalent about graffiti on trees and rocks. Up in the Blue Mountains, seeing graffiti on trees in the rainforest threw me into a rage at the stupidity of people. However, in this case, it had resulted in powerful totemic sculptures that reminded me of the Aboriginal funeral poles I’d seen a couple of days earlier in the Museum of Contemporary Art. The harsh scratched writing had been softened, stretched and transformed by the living plants to form a beautiful monument to the basic human urge towards mark-making. I am still ambivalent about this need to mark other living things as our territory, yet it was impossible to deny the compelling accidental beauty of the end result.

Kirsty Hall: Graffiti on bamboo, Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney

Kirsty Hall: Graffiti on bamboo, Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney

Kirsty Hall: Graffiti on bamboo, Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney

I’ve always been captivated by this sort of communal art form where aesthetics are not always the driving force. In the early 90’s, I spent a lot of time looking at African sacred objects that had been worn smooth by thousands of respectful hands or covered with nails to the point of bristling. I also studied Western traditions of sacred objects – medieval relics, votary offerings, rosary beads, museum displays and the like. I longed to make something with that same sort of presence but realised that it wasn’t possible for me to simply copy an existing form or process and ‘fake’ a sacred object. Years later, it’s something I’m still struggling with and much of my work using repetitive processes hinges on that concept of how to imbue an object with power and meaning.

Back in the gardens, I was also very enamoured with the enormous fruit bats that hung from the trees like giant cocoons.

Kirsty Hall: Fruit Bats, Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney

En masse, they are incredibly noisy – a plane overhead will set of a cacophony of squawking. Indeed, Australian wildlife as a whole seems quite loud to me, many of the birds can raise a real racket – the evening roosting of the parrots has to be heard to be believed. Perhaps they need to state their presence so loudly to combat the daunting distances of this vast land.

Today, I too am feeling daunted – only two and a half days left and still so much to see. Part of me wants to rush over to Sydney again and spend another afternoon looking around, while a greater part of me is arguing for a day spent on the beach in Manly! There has been so much rushing around lately and I feel overfull of textures, shapes, sounds and experiences; I know it will take me months to digest what I’ve seen here.

Despite the heat, I managed to get over to Sydney to visit the Museum of Contemporary Art today. There are currently two exhibitions on: Force Field, a retrospective by Australian artist, Fiona Hall and an exhibition of Aboriginal Bark Paintings.

This was the first time that I’d seen Fiona Hall’s work and I had mixed feelings about it. The pieces I liked the most were the ones where her technique and obvious skill worked in conjunction with her ideas rather than being overwhelmed by them.

I found the pieces made from tupperware consistently witty and engaging. My favourite installation in the show was Cell Culture, a vitrine containing abstract animal forms made from tupperware and thousands of beads. Being able to recognise many specifically Australian birds and animals added an extra dimension to the work for me and I’m sure I enjoyed it more than I would have before I visited Australia.

Fiona Hall: Cell Culture

This image was too wide and I’m working on an unfamiliar laptop and don’t fancy hunting for editing software, so just click on it for the bigger version.

Fiona Hall: Cell Culture, detail

I also enjoyed an installation that featured a wall of tupperware containing lights that blinked on and off in sequence - simple, yet strangely hypnotic.

Paradisus Terestris, her large series of sardine tins containing metal reliefs of human body parts that blossom out into intricately cut metal plants was also enticing.

Fiona Hall: Paradisus Terestris

This work reminded me of The Song of Songs in the Bible - using plants to describe the human figure or vice versa is an ancient story but one that Hall manages to make refreshing here through sheer audacity of technique; you can hardly believe the detail and the fineness of cutting involved in the plants, while the parts of human figures are breathtaking in their minimalist assurance.

Two large installations containing multiples cast in yellow soap also caught my attention, as did the nests made from shredded bank notes and some very beautiful goache paintings of trade plants on bank notes. For me, Hall is at her best when making sculpture, although I also enjoyed her etchings, drawings and some of the photograph and video pieces.

Unfortunately, her work didn’t always quite hit the mark and although there was much that engaged and amused me, there was nothing that absolutely knocked me dead. Her work was often just a little bit too obvious for my tastes; I felt that she often spoilt the work by over-egging the pudding. For example, a set of figurative sculptures made from knitted video tape seemed fairly effective until I noticed that the images related far too directly to the film they’d been made from - i.e. a foot coming out of the box for the film, They Died With Their Boots On. I prefer work to be a little more mysterious and I don’t mind having to work at understanding art - generally, I’m far more tolerant of ambiguity than I am of being preached at and I felt that Hall’s work fell into the didactic far too often. She is clearly an artist who is strongly engaged with her subject matter - colonialism; sexuality and the interaction between people and the environment - but I personally believe that it’s a mistake to let your politics overwhelm your art.

There are a couple of interesting articles about the artist here and here. This quote made me laugh:

“I’m just relieved that I live in an era where, particularly for women, it’s easy to have a life as an artist. Otherwise I don’t know what I would be good for,” Hall says.

Boy can I relate to that!

The exhibition runs until 1st June 2008 and despite my reservations, I do think it’s well worth a visit if you’re in the Sydney area. This post is already quite long and it’s late here, so I’ll save the review of the other exhibition for another day.

Well, I’ve just got back from a fantastic and very luxurious wedding weekend at Peppers Manor House in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales. Being an artist, I’m not used to 4 1/2 star hotels but damn, I could get used to that style of living very easily…

The wedding went well and I’m thrilled to have a delightful new sister-in-law. The two of us get on really well and my brother is clearly head over heels in love with her, which is very sweet to see. I have a fund of stories from the wedding but most of them aren’t repeatable on this blog. Suffice it to say that the combination of Australians and Scots at a wedding is quite a party - there probably aren’t many weddings where Waltzing Matilda gets played on the bagpipes!

………..

Mardi Gras

Despite my sunburn, I managed to make it to Mardi Gras on the Saturday before last. I don’t have any good pictures because my camera isn’t good at night but there are plenty here. It was great fun but a little odd because I was at the start of the parade and mostly surrounded by apparently straight people who didn’t seem to quite ‘get it’. Fortunately I met a lovely man called Andrew and his group of friends, who took me under their wing and made the experience much more enjoyable for me. We were whooping, clapping and cheering while most of the people around us just stood silently and watched while taking photos. Personally, I think that if someone has gone to a huge effort to design and make costumes, put on elaborate make-up, learn complicated dance routines and generally put a lot of work into something, the least you can do is give them a clap and a wave.

………..

Kiama

Kirsty Hall: Kiama Sunrise

The week in Kiama was also a blast - although I could have done without the flea and cockroach infested house that I was staying in! The other three houses our group had booked were gorgeous, while the one I was in quickly earned the titles The Roach Motel and The Flea Pit. I was bitten all over by the end of the 5 days, which did not make me happy. My dad left a very pointed note, I left the flea spray I’d bought in a prominent position and strong words will be had with the letting agent when my brother and sister-in-law return from honeymoon - I hope they get some money back because honestly, the house was far too dilapidated to be let out.

But apart from that, it was fab - lots of barbies, swimming in the sea and great company. There were between 20 - 25 of us at various points in the week, so it was quite a party atmosphere and I enjoyed meeting my sister-in-law’s family for the first time.

………..

Minnamurra Rainforest

During the week at Kiama, a bunch of us visited the stunning Rainforest Centre at Minnamurra. It was a gorgeous place that I’m sure will inspire many drawings, I just loved the way the forest grew around and through itself - all the vines and ferns were very seductive to me.

Kirsty Hall: The Rainforest at Minnamurra

Kirsty Hall: Fern at Minnamurra Rainforest

Kirsty Hall: Vines at Minnamurra Rainforest

Although we could hear loads of them, it was hard to spot birds in the dense forest canopy. However, we did see lyrebirds, parrots and a huge water dragon sunning himself on the rocks by the river.

Unfortunately I didn’t quite make it up to the waterfall because it was very steep in places and I strained my dodgy hip trying. I should have known better than to attempt it but I can be too stubborn for my own good at times. Other than that though, I’ve been doing well at pacing and resting and I’m not struggling too much. I was exhausted yesterday though, so today I’m having a quiet day of recovery back in Manly at my brother and his wife’s house. They left for honeymoon this morning and the rest of my remaining group also headed off this morning, so now I’m all by myself for the rest of my holiday. Fortunately, I enjoy my own company and although I’ve enjoyed being part of a big and vibrant group, I’m looking forward to having some quiet introspective time where I can get more drawing and thinking done.

I’m about to go off and do some internet research to decide what to do next - there’s so much to do here that I feel a little overwhelmed with possibilities but I’ll see what feels right. If I can find a cheap flight, I may jet off to somewhere else in Australia for a couple of days but I won’t be sad if I end up staying here, because Sydney is just amazing and apart from my evening at the Mardi Gras, I haven’t had a chance to explore it yet. Basically, I’m just going with the flow.

My goodness, Kiama is stunning. We’ve got scorching weather so I’ve bought a ridiculously large hat to try and stop from burning any more than I already have. My nose is peeling now - always a great look for anyone! I’m hoping it will have improved by the wedding.

I’m enjoyed soaking up all the new flora and fauna, I’m sure it will inspire a lot of new drawings when I get home. We went swimming in the ocean rock pool down by Kiama harbour yesterday - watching the sun on the gently rippling water, I couldn’t help thinking of David Hockney’s Californian paintings of swimming pools.

Kiama also has a wonderful natural blowhole that sends whooshes of water up into the air and makes momentary rainbows as the sun refracts through the spray. It made me think about Tacita Dean’s recent work where she went chasing the green ray in the sunset.

Apparently, you can take an artist on holiday but you can’t stop them thinking about art…

Well, here I am in Australia and wow, what a stunning place!

I arrived on Thursday evening and after eating dinner, I promptly fell over - it was a very long flight, although not as gruelling as I anticipated.

Yesterday I ate breakfast outside, looking at the Pacific Ocean - it was slightly surreal to be able to text home and tell them this and promptly get a text back. Ah, the wonders of modern technology. Strange to think that many of the first convicts and settlers out here probably never saw or heard from their families again.

After breakfast, I went for a walk around Manley, where I’m staying with my brother and his girlfriend. I saw lizards, parrots and all sorts of birds that I couldn’t identify. Also, spiders as big as my palm - eek! Apparently they’re totally harmless but it was still unnerving to walk beneath them as they hung completely motionless in rows above me.

I’ve been taking photos but working out Flickr is a bit beyond me right now, so you’ll have to wait on those. I’m also doing a travel journal, which is great fun. I haven’t done any drawing yet but I’ve been writing and sticking in receipts and bits of memorabilia. I’ll do some scans when I get home.

I also went paddling in the sea - in the rain! This struck me as deeply ironic, since it was beautiful spring weather when I left Bristol. It is a lot warmer here though, although all the Ozzies are complaining about it being ‘cold’. It cleared up later on though and I managed to catch the sun and get a little red, that’s the disadvantage of being ‘a pale blue Scottish person’, it doesn’t take much sun for my skin to be very surprised at the concept! Fortunately I’m not sunburnt and I’ll be more careful today. Apparently even overcast rainy days need sun cream here.

I’m hoping to go over to Sydney later today to see the gay Mardi Gras. That is, if my killer jetlag allows - I’ll be fine for a few hours and then I’ll suddenly start swaying and staggering as though I’m drunk and have to lie down and pass out.

Well, I’d better go, my parents and some family friends are just about to arrive, my brother is picking them up from the airport. It’s really a little odd to be having a family reunion at the other side of the world.

So apparently getting a lower wisdom tooth out is a really good way to lose an entire week. I had an upper wisdom tooth removed in December and while it was sore for a few days it wasn’t too bad, so I was expecting the lower one to be similar.

Wrong, very, very wrong!

I was well and truly knocked for six by this one. The tooth was only partly erupted so it was a much more difficult extraction, which resulted in stitches and a great deal of bruising and swelling. Then the next day, I had a bad reaction to codeine - it turns out that opiate-based drugs are not my friend because they make me panic, pace relentlessly and cry uncontrollably. I didn’t need to go to hospital or anything but I could definitely have done without it.

Unfortunately, it’s been over a week since I had the tooth out and I’m still in quite a bit of pain - it’s extremely likely that I’ve had a condition called Dry Socket where the jaw gets inflamed, I’ve certainly had all the symptoms. I think it is getting better because the pain is definitely a lot more bearable than a couple of days ago but if it’s not right by Monday, I’ll go and get it checked at the clinic. In retrospect, I should have gone back to the Dental Hospital in the middle of the week and I’m not entirely sure why I didn’t: I think I was just on so many painkillers that my mind was foggy and doing anything at all felt almost impossible.

Still, in between heroic doses of non-opiate painkillers, I managed to finish updating The Diary Project. Yep, all 365 envelopes have finally been scanned, uploaded and blogged - now I just have to work out why the set over on Flickr is mysteriously missing 6 envelopes. Oh and there’s also the small matter of organising an exhibition for the project but I’m not even starting on that until I get back from Australia.

Speaking of Australia, here’s my schedule:

Evening of 28th February - Arrive in Sydney
28th - 2nd March - Staying in Manley and exploring Sydney
2nd - 7th March - Kiama
8th/9th March - wedding
10th - 20th - in Sydney, Manley and Blue Mountain area, possibly fitting in a quick visit to Melbourne if I have the energy
Evening of 20th March - fly home

If you’re a reader who lives in any of those areas and you want to meet up for tea, cake and art chat, email or comment and we’ll arrange something.

I have other stuff to blog about but right now I need to go and take more painkillers and sleep. In the meantime, here’s a photograph that I took on my one of my very few trips out of the house this week…

Kirsty Hall: Trees reflected in a bus stop during a clear winter sunset

Guess where I’m going!

Image belongs to Virtual Australia

Yep, I’ve just got back from the bank and they gave me a loan so I will be going to my brother’s wedding in Australia. The wedding is on the 8th March but I’ll probably go over in the last week of February and stay for about 3-4 weeks (there’s no point in going for any less). I’m mostly going to be in and around Sydney, Kiama and the Blue Mountains area, although if I go for 4 weeks rather than 3, then I might be in Melbourne for a few days as well.

Anyway, if you’re in that area and would like to meet up, please do let me know. Or if you’ve visited Australia and have any handy advice or recommendations, that would be helpful: obviously, I’m especially interested in art related things but any tips would be great.

Oh, my mind is reeling. I have so much to organise to make this happen, like renewing my passport, organising a visa, sorting out accommodation and about a zillion other things. Of course, now I’m wondering if I could do a little mini-project while I’m over there although I’ll certainly be doing a travel journal in the beautiful book that I got from Kaija in the Paying It Forward exchange and that might be enough.

Er, I think I might need to go and lie down and boggle for a bit: I’m feeling a little overwhelmed.